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Nike Shox
NIKE SHOX, THE SPRING COLUMNS OF THE YEAR 2000 RETURNED TO THE STREET
BRUCE KILGORE IMAGINED THE SHOX IN 1984, NIKE THE RELEASE IN 2000
It took sixteen years for the Nike Shox. In 1984, Bruce Kilgore, the designer of theAir Force 1, sought an alternative to theair bubble: a mechanical cushioning, which collapses on impact and releases energy like a spring. His first prototype looks like a running shoe with a brace in the back. You had to wait for the materials to follow, and the Nike Shox R4 came out in 2000 with four hollow polyurethane columns under the heel, placed between two plates. The columns sag towards the center instead of spreading out to the sides, and the stride bounces.
The same year, at the Sydney, Vince Carter Games wore the Shox BB4 when he jumps over Frédéric Weis, 2.18 m French pivot, to smash. The “ dunk of death” becomes the advertisement of technology. In 2003, Nike extended the columns to full foot length: twelve pillars, and a name, Shox TL, for total.
SHOX TL AND R4: FROM TRACK TO STREET CULTURE
The TL and R4 had a second life, far from the slopes. In England, they became l'uniforme of the grime scene of the 2000s, just like Air Max ; in France, they fitted a suburban generation who saw them not as sports shoes but as a statement. Skepta closed the loop in 2019 with its SK Shox TL, printed with patterns inspired by its Nigerian heritage.
MARTINE ROSE, SUPREME, CDG: THE RETURN OF SHOX
The return was made through fashion. Comme des Garçons revisits the Shox TL in 2018; Supreme releases the Shox Ride 2 in 2022. But it is Martine Rose who rocks the silhouette in 2023 with the MR4 : a Shox R4 transformed into a heeled mule, whose toe elongates like a moccasin. Kendrick Lamar wears it at the Grammy Awards; the silhouette goes from niche cult to fashion object. Since 2024, Nike reissues the TL and R4 in original colors, and the Y2K trend has installed them in seasonal rotations.
HOW TO WEAR THE SHOX TL
It can be worn with what made it famous: jogging pants tightened at the ankle or straight jeans that reveal the columns, and a metallic palette – silver, black, white – which recalls the year 2000. The TL fits just right; the fit is narrow in the forefoot, take a half size larger if you have wide feet. In our Nikeselection, it is the link between Kilgore'sAir Force 1 and the Mind 001 : three ways, forty years apart, to reinvent what happens underfoot. The new colors arrive on the page new items.
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