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New Balance 204L
NEW BALANCE 204L, THE THIN SOLE OF THE 70S UNDER A UPPER FROM THE 2000S
THE RESPONSE OF NEW BALANCE TO SAMBA, RELEASED ON JULY 30, 2025
For ten years, New Balance has dominated the chunky sneaker — 990, 2002R, 9060. Then the street changed its mind: the Samba, the Gazelle, the return of flat soles. The 204L is the answer of Boston 's response to this switch. Launched on July 30, 2025 in Mushroom, it sold out during the day, followed on August 13 by Timberwolf ; House of Heat listed it as one of the year's unexpected hits, with no launch campaign or collaboration.
The L stands for low. The silhouette descends from the New Balance 320 and the 321, the 1970s track runners with a thin sole and sloping profile, the same ones that inspired the 530SL of Miu Miu in 2024 — the collaboration that shifted the market towards the low profile. The 204L doesn't descend directly from it, but it occupies the same terrain, and it does so without a luxury logo.
MULTI-PANEL SUEDE AND 104MM SOLE
The upper comes from a different era than the sole. Entirely in suede, it multiplies the panels, cutouts and embossed overlays in the spirit of the technical overlays of the 1990s and 2000s - New Balance compared it to the RC56 of the archives and to the cross shoes of the 2000s. The result is a sneaker very drawn seen up close, very sober seen from afar. The sole measures only 104 mm at the widest of the forefoot, for 320 grams: the thinnest and lightest shoe in the brand's lifestyle catalog, with cushioning that laboratory tests found to be better than the thickness suggests.
MUSHROOM, TIMBERWOLF AND THE COLORS OF THE 204L
Mushroom, the warm taupe from the launch, remains the reference and the deepest in our selection. Timberwolf, lighter, leans towards cream and highlights the reliefs of the stem. Around, New Balance has declined the 204L in Sea Salt Linen, Silver Metallic Black, Silver Metallic Sage Green, Black Timberwolf, Blue True Red and Rose Pastel — versions that turn out quickly, in small quantities, like all the colors of the model since its out.
HOW TO SIZE THE 204L AND HOW TO WEAR IT
The 204L runs small: a half size larger than your usual size, and a full size if you have wide feet — the fit is narrower than that of a 990 or a 1906R. It is worn like one wears Samba : straight or slightly flared pants that fall over the shoe, thin or invisible sock, and shades that match suede, beige, ecru, gray. In our sneakersdepartment, it is the exact counterpoint to the 2002R : same brand, same suede, but a sole halved. And for those who want to stay in New Balance without leaving the low profile, the 530 is the halfway neighbor.
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