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Outdoor Shoes
SHOES OUTDOOR : HOKA, SALOMON AND WE, FROM THE TRAIL TO THE CITY
THE GORPCORE, OR HOW THE TRAIL SHOE DESCENDED INTO THE CITY
Ten years ago, a trail shoe was only worn on a trail. Today, it is worn under wide pants in Paris, London or Tokyo. The movement has a name, gorpcore — from gorp, the dried fruit mix of American hikers — and it has transformed mountain equipment into street clothing: Gore-Tex, fleeces, technical bags, and especially shoes outdoor with notched soles and signal colors. What was functional has become desirable, precisely because it is functional.
Two of the three shoe brands outdoor that carry this movement come from the same place: Annecy, at the foot of the Alps, where much of the world's mountain sports industry is concentrated.
SALOMON ET HOKA : DEUX MARQUES D'ANNECY
Salomon was founded in 1947 by François Salomon, who manufactured ski edges, then bindings. The brand moved to trail running in the 2000s, and the _ fat; the, designed in 2013 for ultra-endurance races, became the cult fashion shoe at the turn of the 2020s — via designer boutiques and collaborations with MM6 Maison Margiela. The Speedcross, with deep lugs, remains the benchmark for soft terrain; speed lacing Quicklace speed lacing and the Contagrip sole are its signatures.
Hoka was born in 2009 from two former Salomon, Nicolas Mermoud and Jean-Luc Diard, with an idea that made people laugh: an oversized sole to go down slopes faster. Maximalism has won. Bought by Deckers in 2013, Hoka established itself on the trail with the Speedgoat — named after the runner Karl Meltzer — and its Vibram Megagrip sole, then in town with the Clifton and the Bondi.
ON: THE THIRD WAY, SWITZERLAND
On, founded in Zurich in 2010, completes the trio with another idea of cushioning: cells CloudTec rather than thickness. Its Cloudultra is made for long-distance trail running, its Cloudvista for smoother paths.
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR OUTDOOR
SHOESTo choose outdoor trail shoes, start from the field: deep lugs for mud and snow, smoother sole for dry roads, Gore-Tex membrane if you go out in the rain. For the city, choose the silhouette: XT-6 for the technical look, Speedgoat or Bondi for volume, Cloudtilt for sobriety. They are worn with cargo or technical pants, a parka, and socks that stick out. Our shoes from running and our boots complete the range, from the slopes to the shelter.
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