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Pants
MEN'S STREETWEAR TROUSERS: WORKWEAR, DENIM, CARGO AND WIDE CUTS
WORK TROUSERS, THE FOUNDATION OF THE STREETWEAR WARDROBE
The pants most worn on the street were not designed for the street. The 874 Original by Dickies, launched in 1967 for Texan workers, stood out with its polyester-cotton canvas that does not crease and a straight cut that fits any shoe. The Double Knee, with its reinforced knees, extends the same utilitarian logic.
Carhartt WIP has taken the opposite path: starting from American construction clothing and recutting it in the European style, with the Brandon in denim and the Landon in washed canvas. And Service Works takes the logic to the kitchen, with chef pants designed to be worn after service. Three origins, the same rule: work pants are judged by their weight and their reinforcements, not by their logo.
JEAN AND DENIM : FROM RAW TO BAGGY
The denim occupies the widest part of the department, and can be read by the cut. THE BG10 by Bonnegueule and the raw canvases of Pierre Bassene play on straight jeans that patina with use — the kind you wear every day for a year before washing them. On the other hand, True Religion offers the Ricky straight, the Billy bootcut and the Bobby baggy with the signature Super T stitching, whileIce Cream and Billionaire Boys Club works jeans as a patterned canvas, Running Embroidered Dog or Arch Logo.
Between the two, Études Studio offers a washed black Denim Pant and Cooper suit pants which remind us that the streetwear wardrobe does not exclude wool. The choice is based on thickness: a 14 ounce denim stands up on its own and takes a few weeks, an 11 ounce is comfortable from the first day.
WIDE, CARGO AND LOOSE FIT PANTS
The silhouette has tilted towards the wide, and the ray follows. Wide Leg of Daily Paper falls straight from the pelvis to the ankle. Gramicci comes from climbing — founded in 1982 by a Californian climber — and keeps its technical codes on the Gadget Pant and the Loose Tapered : gusseted crotch to raise the leg, buckled webbing belt that adjusts one main.
The cargois judged by the number and position of the pockets. TheInvincible Cargo from Carhartt WIP places them on the thigh, where they do not hinder walking; the nylon versions of Casablanca play the same volume in a rustling material. A wide cut requires a shoe that supports it visually: a bulky sneaker or a derby with a notched sole rather than a slim silhouette that would disappear underneath.
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR STREETWEAR TROUSERS
Three questions are enough. The cut first — straight, loose, baggy, wide leg or tapered — which decides everything else about the outfit. Then the material: twill for everyday use, denim for patina, nylon for lightness, corduroy for winter. Finally, the length, and this is the point that everyone neglects: streetwear pants are worn with a hem that rests on the shoe, never above the ankle, unless you want a deliberately short effect.
For the top, a sweat or a t-shirt with the equivalent width keeps the proportion. And if it's comfort that takes precedence over outfit, the jogging department has exactly the same fleece cuts.
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