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Pants
MEN'S STREETWEAR PANTS: WORKWEAR, DENIM, CARGO AND WIDE FITS
WORK PANTS, THE FOUNDATION OF THE STREETWEAR WARDROBE
The pants most worn on the street were not designed for the street. The 874 Original by Dickies, launched in 1967 for Texas workers, established itself through its wrinkle-resistant poly-cotton twill and a straight fit that falls over any shoe. The Double Knee, with its reinforced knees, extends the same utilitarian logic.
Carhartt WIP took the opposite path: starting from American construction workwear and recutting it with a European approach, with the Brandon in denim and the Landon in washed canvas. And Service Works pushes the logic all the way into the kitchen, with chef pants designed to be worn after service. Three origins, one same rule: work pants are judged by their weight and reinforcements, not by their logo.
JEANS AND DENIM: FROM RAW DENIM TO BAGGY
The denim takes up the largest share of the department, and it is read through the fit. The BG10 by Bonnegueule and the raw denim fabrics of Pierre Bassene play on the straight jean that develops a patina with wear — the kind you wear every day for a year before washing it. At the opposite end, True Religion offers the straight Ricky, the bootcut Billy and the baggy Bobby with Super T stitching as its signature, while Ice Cream and Billionaire Boys Club treat jeans like a patterned canvas, embroidered Running Dog or Arch Logo.
Between the two, Études Studio offers a washed black Denim Pant and Cooper suit trousers, a reminder that the streetwear wardrobe does not exclude wool. The choice comes down to thickness: a 14-ounce denim stands up on its own and takes a few weeks to break in, while an 11-ounce one is comfortable from day one.
WIDE PANTS, CARGO AND LOOSE FITS
The silhouette has shifted toward roomier fits, and the department follows suit. The Wide Leg by Daily Paper falls straight from the hips to the ankle. Gramicci comes from climbing — founded in 1982 by a Californian climber — and keeps its technical codes on the Gadget Pant and the Loose Tapered : gusseted crotch for high leg movement, a webbing belt with a buckle that can be adjusted with one hand.
Cargo pants, meanwhile, are judged by the number and placement of their pockets. Carhartt WIP's Invincible Cargo places them on the thigh, where they don't get in the way when walking; the nylon versions from Casablanca play with the same volume in a fabric that rustles. A wide cut calls for a shoe that can visually support it: a chunky sneaker or a lug-sole derby rather than a slim silhouette that would disappear underneath.
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR STREETWEAR PANTS
Three questions are enough. First, the cut — straight, loose, baggy, wide leg or tapered — which determines everything else in the outfit. Then the fabric: twill for everyday wear, denim for patina, nylon for lightness, corduroy for winter. Finally, the length, and that's the point everyone overlooks: streetwear pants are worn with a hem that rests on the shoe, never above the ankle, unless you're intentionally going for a cropped effect.
Up top, a sweat or a t-shirt with a similar volume keeps the proportions balanced. And if comfort matters more than structure, the joggers category takes up exactly the same cuts in fleece.
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