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Acne Studio
Other collections
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ACNE STUDIOS, THE AMBITION TO CREATE NEW EXPRESSIONS
A CREATIVE COLLECTIVE BEFORE BEING A FASHION HOUSE
Behind the four letters hides a phrase that few customers know: Ambition to Create Novel Expressions. The acronym also had a first, more prosaic life - Associated Computer Nerd Enterprises — inherited from the world of digital graphics from which the strip came.
Because in 1996 at Stockholm, Johnny Johansson and three partners do not found a clothing brand. They are setting up a multidisciplinary collective that involves graphics, design, in cinema, production and advertising. Johansson told Number : a group linked by mutual admiration, who wanted to explore several creative fields like contemporary artists move from one medium to another. Clothing was not the initial project, it imposed itself — it is, in his words, “ the common glue that binds all creative disciplines ».
ONE HUNDRED JEANS WITH RED STITCHING
The founding act dates from 1997 and is contained in one figure. Johansson designs a hundred jeans in denim raw with red stitching and offers them to loved ones. At a time when the bootcut reigns supreme, a straight leg highlighted with scarlet thread stands out enough for Wallpaper* and Vogue Paris seize it. Tasty detail: his friends initially refused to wear them, the aesthetic seemed illegible to them.
Acne Jeans was formalized in 1998, with a premium positioning counter to the streetwear American which then dominated the market. It will be necessary to wait until 2006 forAcne Studios becomes an independent company, detached from Acne Film, Acne Advertising and Acne Digital, and immediately opens its e-commerce.
THE FACE FACE AND THE BLÅ KONST LINE
The most recognizable logo in contemporary fashion is a scribble. Johansson sketched it during a fashion show, and in 2017 this little face became the collection Face — a bestseller that can be found today on sweatshirts, wool scarves and t-shirts. The creator explains it with the Swedish word lagom : not too happy, not too sad, just right.
Two dates frame this period. In 2018, the house insulates its denim in a dedicated line, Bla Konst — “blue art”. In 2019, it set up its headquarters at Floragatan 13, the former headquarters of the Swedish Communist Party, converted into a brutalist setting.
EMOTIONALLY CHARGED MINIMALISM
The aesthetic comes down to a formula: lines that seem simple, but where every detail is difficult to read. An out of place seam, a dense material, a deliberately dissonant hem. It's not the Scandinavian coldness that we too quickly attribute to the Swedish brand, it's a discreet strangeness - an oversized knit, worked leather, a jacket whose shoulders drop an inch too much, on purpose.
This collective logic goes far beyond the wardrobe: the house publishes Acne Paper, publishes books, and signed with Frédéric Malle a perfume composed by Suzy Le Helley. A transversal approach that Acne Studios shares with Études Studio Parisian side, or with Arte in Antwerp.
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